Smiling folks

One thing in Nepal is really special (besides mountains, nature, Gompas......): the Nepalis. These people are just amazing! 

best man on the trek - Bob Marley Hostel

Of course, you always have the good and the bad but actually... I haven't really met bad ones here that often.

I just realized this when I was trekking because on the trek I first met a Nepali host, who wasn't friendly. Who didn't try everything to help me. Who didn't smiled the the whole day. Seems I'm too used to this by now so it's time to have a break and honor the wonderful souls here in Nepal!

Coming from India it is wonderful relaxed here. The Nepalis aren't that pushy, they don't try as hard as the Indians to sell their stuff, they're just more laid back.

Starting at my first day, when a stranger helped me to find my hostel for about 30 minutes at 1 a.m., going to the holy festival where the hostel staff took us with them the best places, going on with lots of busrides where people not sitting there quietly but singing and laughing out loud (I loved this one. Imagine you're sitting in a bus, starting to get exhausted and then a Nepali song starts and one, then two and suddenly the whole bus starts to sing full-throated and become friends after!).

I could go on with this little stories but the truth is, there are too many! These little things take place here every single day and I'm kinda scared to return to the (sometimes cold) Western world where people don't really speak to strangers.

There's a big lesson for us to learn anyway. When I started travelling in Nepal I had a bad feeling to meditate right next to some local workers, who worked their asses off to rebuilt the damages of the earthquake in 2015. *Little sidestory: it is amazing, what the people are perform here! I hope I can do another article about the reconstructions to explain that further but in short: the people just built their own land with almost nothing. Every day and everyone without complaining. It feels like a whole country plays in the same team which makes the feeling of being surrounded by outstanding people even bigger.* But back to our lesson. So I felt bad about my 'first world problem' (finding myself or calmness or whatever) during meditation while some local women tow some really heavy baskets on their forehead (they have these big baskets full of stones, should be around 30-50 kilo  each which they carry on their back, being held by a scarf - or something like that - which goes around the basket and is placed on their foreheads.). I actually felt really stupid and asked my discussion group about it, if someone else felt like going there and help instead of sitting there and meditate. There were different answers but the best one came straight from a local a few weeks later when I talked about this with some local workers:

"Don't worry! We might be poor but we are so rich in our hearts!"

building

Another (Western guy) said this:

"Are you sure, they have the bigger problems? We from the Western world come here to learn to listen to ourselves. They might work hard but at 6 p.m. they're all standing there, drinking tea with each other, laughing. And then they go home to their families. In my company we work without looking at each other. And in the evening we say a quick goodbye and leave way too late for quality time with our families. To be honest, I came here to learn about myself with meditation. I don't think these people need this, they are born with it like everyone and they (in contrast to us) never lost it. So maybe they're just talking pitying about us right now like "Look these poor people from the West. They need to come here to be happy!"

strong Nepali and their baskets full of stones

After 3 month in Nepal I think I agree with both. Yes, life is not always easy here. But the people are so happy and friendly and welcoming that I can't think anything else than that they might do something (more) right then us. Maybe it all comes from the education. When I see a little girl falling asleep over the table at 10 p.m. and her mother pushing her roughly so she finishes her meal, I can't really agree with it. But for sure it makes them tougher and complain less and maybe that is something really important for us (especially Germans...) to learn.

There are some things which are different in general here and what other cultures could adapt easily:

parts of the friendshipcafe-family

In Nepal you complete a table before you start a new one. (I had this in Arabic and African countries too but that's just a sign that it might be a good idea!) The funny thing here is that not only the locals behave so but also the tourist seem more open. To be honest: the tourists I met in Nepal - maybe together with Tanzania and Sri Lanka - are the most interesting and lovely people I met in a while! Of course I speak in general now(!!!) but somehow the majority of people I met here is just different to people I met in Thailand, Bali or Cambodia (again: I met wonderful people there, too but speaking about the people who were around and created the atmosphere it was totally different). So when I came to my favorite bar in Pokhara for the first time I sat down for about 2 seconds, listen to the music, when a girl came over and said: "Why are you sitting alone? Don't you want to join us?" This would never happen in Germany. And even if people are okay with it somewhere else, mostly it would be you who has to make the first step instead of the group of already sitting people. Once again I have to point out the difference between Backpacker and other Touris... This became crystal clear when Adri and me came to this Lodge after hours of trekking and non-eating. The lodge was full with Touris. You know, those who have a porter and a guide (I'll explain this in the Trekking post) and no idea in which country they actually are without their guidebook. 

Kopan-family doesn't end with Kopan - night out in Thamel

We were exhausted and hungry and it started to be cold and rainy so we asked if there were any more places so we could have lunch (if necessary I would have sat on the floor!). The waiter looked around... all the tourists looked at each other... looked at us..... and kept on with their meal. The waiter apologized and we had to go on without lunch. With no doubt both of us agreed: every backpacker's reaction would have been an immediately close ranks and a warm "oh c'mmon! There's always space for one more!" And so would have been every Nepali's reaction. I didn't know until then that I am so used to this open and friendly behavior by now that I kinda expect people to be like this. Guess I have to work on my expectations soon.....

In Nepal you say: "So good to see you!" Not just hello, not "Hey how are you" without being interested in the answer. You say So good to see you, because you mean it. Before you say that you mostly say "Namasté" which is beautiful itself because it means roughly: "The Spirit within me salutes the Spirit in you" and makes us all the same.

In Nepal you smile. Yes you do. Because everyone else is smiling too!

Just for the sake of completeness: everyone in Nepal is relaxed. Which has a good side: everyone is relaxed! And a bad one: you get stuck from time to time, hanging around a hostel and haven't really done anything in a week. Happend to most people here at least once. But hey - as long as you find your way out - why not take a little break from the fast moving world?

  

In Nepal you're a family wherever you go. It's funny how communities call themselves families but I love that. It's true we all are kind of a family and when you live with the same group of people for some time it can feel like a little home with a little family. Here in Nepal I had quite a lot of families. My Fireflies(Hostel)-family, my Kopan(Monastery)-family, my Aloobar(Hostel)-family, my Friendshipcafe-family, my trekking-family. That was actually one of the first things I heard in Nepal: "Welcome to the family. You stay here, then you are my sister now." How can you not love this country...?

Trekking the Annapurnas

Wow... Where to start...??
The beauty of the nature, which is incredible?
The people you meet on the road and who become friends in no time because of this amazing shared adventure?
The challenge of pain and no motivation, weather and cold?
The feeling when you first realize your body is capable of things you could never imagine?
The feeling of real fear when you realize you're alone in the mountains and there is a landslide area and just in case something happens (which of course never would.... or would it...?) there's nobody around for at least 5 kilometers?

It is all worth a whole post but I'll try in one. About the nature... Lets say it in pictures.

     

About the people...

Going together really brings people together. Without the support of friends, cookies, nice words to the right time etc. it is even harder so just thank you all you beautiful people for going parts of the way with me!

The next two points are harder to explain. I can just say.. This experience was unique! Growing up in safety we (or at least I) was not used to put myself in a situation, where I have to give up the control. Don't get me wrong, it is all about the mind, of course. You might think you're tired but if you have to your body is definitely capable of going 5 more kilometers (or more.). But that's the thing: if you have to. I do a lot of sports and I thought, I know my limits. I wasn't stoping sports when I was hurt in Germany either, just take it more relaxed or whatever. But this is different. Imagine you're in pain, real pain and you need to stop. Or you're tired. Or you feel the AMS coming (mountain sickness). And there is no coffee shop around. No lodge. Not even other people. You have to keep on going. And just hoping it will be okay. A friend once said: "At one point you have to accept the nature has more power. But the nature isn't bad." Another friend quoted some American president (no names): "You're going through hell? Keep going." That's it. For me as a complaining German was it really good to experience that sometimes it doesn't help to complain. Either you go further or you sit down for 2 minutes and then go further. The only alternative (which is none) is to sleep outside in the mountains. And that's cold. And potentially dangerous. 

cooling feet....

I've head some great pain during the trek (damn you, hip!) but the only really dangerous situation happend to me, when I was alone (you shouldn't walk alone, at least not in an altitude above 3500 - but it was the first trek and I thought it would be okay...): I've started quiet late and it was almost evening. I was somewhere between 3500 and 4200 meters and I was all alone, hadn't seen any person in hours. It was about 4 kilometers to the next village (everyone who never hiked in the mountains: 1 kilometer can be 15 minutes or 4 hours. Depends on the ground/rise etc.) and I had to cross a bridge. There were 2 and I chose the second one, half a k further. As I went down I saw 2 vultures  - really big ones - one always at one spot, the other flying out, looking nervously on me - flying back. Later I found out that they had a nest down there but for the moment I was just a little alert. The more I got down to the bridge, the more nervous got the bird and finally he flew in my direction and stood 10 meters away showing his wingspread (can be about 3 meters). We looked at each other and I became aware that it was only the two of us. Him bigger and and in his territory and me tired, with a hurting hip and with a precipice of round about 30 meters next to me. I decided to walk the 500m back and took the other bridge. Still a little nervous I arrived at the other side - just to find out it was a landslide area. With a path of not more that 20 cm directly next to the precipice. And the path was going up. I decided to have some cookies and couldn't have been any luckier when 2 other trekkers arrived 10 minutes later. I made sure that they were behind me and finished my last 4 km of this day. The thing with landslide is this: if you put your foot carefully one step ahead it will break and you'll loose balance. So I just walked and heard the stones under my feet falling down 30-50 meters. After this I never walked alone again.

But here's the thing: If you have to finish it, you will finish it. There is no way to don't do it (besides calling the helicopter, which will cost you a lot of money and even if - in 4000m you don't really get phone connection that easily...) Seeing my body just do it, even when I was sure I couldn't do it was one of the most inspiring experiences in my whole life.

when blisters get blisters.....

I met a lot of people who had AMS, got blind on the way, had fully taped feet, were sick or exhausted or just really tired. And almost all of them made it. I heard stories of rocks falling down half a meter in front of your head, people being alone somewhere with some wolfs (or vultures...) and other dangerous situations. And for the first time I did understand that it can be really easy to die. Nothing happend to any of my friends or me, we all survived and we all made it over the pass (5416 m !!!) but the feeling of not only having another adventure but having some actual dangerous situations was something completely new and it brought a lot of new ways of thinking to me.

Now I wanna paraglide as soon as possible! :D

So what I learned from the trek: everything is possible. You're much stronger than you think (even if you're already sure that you're strong like I was). Nature is big, incredible and beautiful but also scary and overwhelming. Walking is one of the best meditations ever. It is super funny how different people react (some stop eating, some eat 3 times as much as down, some become exhausted, some become just supportive .... this goes on forever!). Next time I'll bring my Ipoad cable (!!!!). The nights are damn cold (!!!!) Everything is better with friends, even if you don't speak for hours (or sometimes especially then). The little villages in the mountains are outstanding beautiful! 

...And a lot more which is too private to share.

And one thing for all the tourists with porters and guides: Guys. Seriously. I do understand that someone needs a porter who's old. Or hurt. Or if you pay him fair I even understand if you just want one (for me, carrying your own stuff is part of the challenge but everyones's different) BUT I will have no understanding or compassion EVER for those of you who give your porter more to carry than necessary. I saw porters carrying 50 kilo. This is NOT okay! Even if he accepts (which he probably does because he really needs the money) it is too much for one person! If you really need 50 kilos (who the hell needs that on a trek????) goddamn take and pay two porters!!! NO understanding for the sentence "Well I don't have to carry it, so I could bring it!" No way guys! I really hope the karma will put you in a donkey life next so you'll have to carry a lot!

And for those who take porters and guides and treat them fair: well your choice but hey, just give it a thought if the experience could be much deeper if you discover on your own and make it over the pass/to the top with your own stuff on your back... We all can!

Holy shit - it's Holi! - Hello Nepal!

Hours spent at the airport: 26

Imagine this: you have a great Goodbyparty in Sri Lanka (thanks guys, that night was awesome!) and sleep for 1,5 hours. Then spend the day (6 hours) in a bus to the airport just to find out that you've missed your flight (I don't wanna hear anything that this happend again! At least it was cheap this time), spend 12 hours at the airport, then fly to KL for 5 hours and then spend some more (like 10) hours at that airport. After another 3 hours flight you arrive in Nepal at 1 a.m.
To those who are as bad I am in Math: that means more or less 36 hours of bittersweet travelling after 1,5 hours of sleep.

Working hard in my "airport office"

Tired is one word for that. Anyway, after getting my backpack back (and after getting over the fact that the front pocket was open and my beloved knife was gone..) and getting to Kathmandu Center, it only took me one hour to find my hostel. But since Nepalis are the most friendly people on earth (I could write a whole post about it and probably I will....) I was in good company with this young Nepali, who helped me looking for one hour, using his phone, my map and lots of other Nepalis we met on the way.
Finally we did find the right place and the tired-to-hell-Leonie was welcomed with the words: "Hey there, you better go to sleep, we'll wake you up in about 5 hours, you know, it's Holi tomorrow...?!"

You do not wanna hear this after almost 40 hours with no sleep (or 50something with 1,5 hours sleep). But yes, I had no idea that it was Holi and even with dark shades under my eyes it turned out to one of the most amazing welcome days I've ever had in a country!

Most of you guys know about Holi, for those who don't: it is a traditional hindu festival, coming from India. Basically you get very (!) colorful that day ;) Holi is held the day after the first fullmoon in the Phalgun (February or March) and lasts 2-5 days. Depending on country or city the festival itself and it's meaning can variate a little but they all have in common that lots of people are on the street, throwing water(-bombs) and colored pulver at each other and themselves. They sing and dance, welcome the spring, bless each other and celebrate the victory of the good over the bad. Social status, age or nationality are unimportant that day - everyone (but widows) can and should join the festival.

Fireflies Hostel staff and guest going crazy

That's the theory. The truth is: it's even more beautiful. Tourists, locals, old, young, men, women, rich and poor were dancing together on the streets of Kathmandu. You definitely shouldn't be afraid of body contact, as everyone you meet will rub color in your face with a huge smile and a "Happy Holiiiii!" and I have to say as a woman it can get a little uncomfortable, being total surrounded by people, since some men just take the chance and grab your boobs or behind. But in the end... That was 2 minutes and the rest of that day was full of love and community. I really never saw this before. It didn't matter where someone was coming from or which language was spoken. Everyone shared a good time. Without any borders.

What a warm welcome!

Meanwhile - we heard about this in the evening of Holi - the Brussel's attacks took place. The difference couldn't have  been any bigger. At one end of the world people are inviting strangers to dance to their holy festival. On the other side people get killed because of cultural and religious differences. Once more I felt the need of this world and it's citizens to open their hearts to the unknown. And I mean both sides. The side who were actually attack and the side who got scared after and wanted to close all borders. 
Yes. There are and will always be people who are (or act) badly. But this shouldn't keep us away to share love and wisdom. To open our hearts without fear for the unknown and learn from it instead of fighting it. 
The Holi in Nepal and the wonderful Nepali people showed me once more that this is actually possible.

I know. I sound like the worst Hippie on earth. Maybe I am. But just because I seen this happening and I see other things happening which are going in the wrong direction. So... start today!

Love.

Anil Deoja, PLAN International sponsorship manager of Magwanpur

What do you think about tourists in Nepal?


Anil: Tourists come more for sighs. but there is also a great number of volunteers who come to work or do research here and we think that is fine. We try to show them our work and try to teach them something new.

What would you say is the most special thing about Nepal?

Anil: We have a lot of ancien stupas and buildings, the mountains, for example the Anapurna Circuit is great! And to see how the people cope with the earthquake and its effects.

Anil Deoja and his friend and driver